Fort Cornwallis (Kota Cornwallis) is an imposing fort at the heart of George Town’s historic district. The military fortification served as the administrative center of Prince of Wales Island (Penang Island) during the British colonial era. It was named after Charles Cornwallis (1738-1805), the Governor-General of Bengal at the time.

Kota Dine & Coffee is an upscale restaurant inside Fort Cornwallis. The air-conditioned eatery serves local (especially Nyonya) cuisine with a twist of modern influences. A life size statue of Captain Francis Light (1740-1794) greets customers at the restaurant’s entrance.

Today’s meal begins with Kota’s Pie Tee (RM18.00), a popular Peranakan (Nyonya) snack that uses crispy tart shells. The shells are filled with a savory mixture of shredded sole fish, jicama (sengkuang) and carrots. This appetizer comes with scrambled egg, sambal belacan (spicy shrimp paste) and lime.

Next, Otak-Otak Nyonya Fish Custard (RM18.00) is a seafood cake made from fish, squid and scallop. Although seasoned with spices, this delicacy is mildly spicy by Malaysian standards. The word “otak-otak” means “brains” in Malay, which is in reference to its soft texture.

The meal proceeds to Nyonya Lemak Salad (RM18.00), which features a pumpkin bowl with grilled pumpkin and vegetables inside. Thick turmeric dressing serves as dipping sauce. I am also impressed with the unique taste of seaweed tofu. Other salad ingredients are cherry tomatoes, ginger flower, lemongrass and mint leaves.

Moving on, Kota’s Chicken Satay (RM22.00) is kept warm over burning charcoal. Sweet-and-spicy peanut sauce is provided. Skewers of pressed rice, cherry tomatoes, shallots and cucumber also take advantage of the dipping sauce. For the satay, I think the taste of turmeric ought to be more prominent.

The next dish is Barramundi Nyonya Sauce (RM28.00). The slice of steamed fish is reasonably firm in texture. It is elegantly flavored with the spicy-sweetness of Nyonya chili sauce. Shimeji mushrooms and okra (lady’s fingers) are served on the side. The dish is accompanied by a serving of brown rice that contains black beans, corn kernels, garlic chips and fried leek.

Lamb Shank Curry (RM53.00) is perhaps one of the best dishes at Kota. Cooked in Indian-style curry, the lamb is delightfully tender off the bone. The lamb is rightly paired with a serving of Indian-style basmati rice with ghee, spices and fried leek.

Another recommended dish is Kota Cannonball Chicken Rice (RM25.00). The grilled chicken is beautifully seasoned with honey-sweet sauce, striking a chord with my palate. Between the red chili sauce and green chili sauce, the former seems to work better for me. Meanwhile, the spherical rice balls resemble the ones served at Jonker Walk, Malacca.

To cater to vegetarians, Kota has crafted a handful of meatless dishes. For example, Fried Brown Rice (RM25.00) is served with imitation lamb, scrambled egg, black beans, diced carrot and corn kernels.

The beverage menu includes three iced drinks that are based on calamansi-flavored soda. Firstly, Signature (RM16.00) is concocted from lemongrass, mint leaves and ginger flower. Next, the tangy Sunrise (RM16.00) is prepared from passion fruit, mango, orange and mint leaves, while Sunset (RM16.00) contains a refreshing mixture of watermelon, lychee and mint leaves.

All in all, Kota presents traditional Nyonya dishes in a creative approach. Furthermore, the food presentation here is absolutely commendable; I appreciate the fact that the restaurant uses such refined porcelain tableware!

Admission to Fort Cornwallis is RM10.00 for Malaysian citizens. The ticket price can be deducted from the total bill subjected to minimum spending of RM20.00 per person. It is noteworthy to mention that the restaurant has received halal certification, making it a fine choice of dining to the general public.

Name: Kota Dine & Coffee
Address: Kota Cornwallis, Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah, 10200 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-371-4929
Business hours: 10:30am-10:30pm
Website: https://www.facebook.com/KotaDineAndCoffee
Coordinates: 5.42068 N, 100.34418 E
Directions: Fort Cornwallis (Kota Cornwallis) is located opposite the Penang State Assembly Building (Bangunan Dewan Undangan Negeri) on Light Street (Lebuh Light). There are two entrances to the fort: at the east and west walls. Street parking is available around the esplanade at Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah and Jalan Padang Kota Lama. Kota Dine & Coffee is located near the east gate and behind the amphitheater.

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

Today’s dinner brings me to Peranakan Passion Nyonya Restaurant (娘惹餐厅) at D’Piazza Mall. The Peranakan (Nyonya) community primarily comprises of descendants of Chinese immigrants who settled Southeast Asia between the 15th and 17th centuries. In addition, there are also smaller Peranakan communities of Indian, Arab and Eurasian lineage.

Peranakan Passion is operated by a Peranakan family from Malacca. The family-owned restaurant features the portrait of the matriarch, from whom many of the recipes are derived from. To present a homely Nyonya atmosphere, the dining area is decorated with classic Nyonya ornaments such as traditional attire, porcelain ware and tiffin carriers.

Peranakan Passion specializes in authentic, home-style Peranakan cuisine. Like many traditional Nyonya households, the recipes were inherited from generation to generation. Peranakan Passion’s food menu combines signature Nyonya dishes from Malacca, Penang, Singapore and Indonesia.

The restaurant’s bestselling dish is Assam Pedas Tau Teh, a renowned delicacy from Malacca. The curry strikes a delicate balance between sour and spicy flavors. The choice of fish is Chinese silver pomfret (斗鲳), a premium choice that is sought-after in seafood restaurants. The dish is also garnished with tomatoes, shallots, mint and bunga kantan (torch ginger).

Fried Rempah Squid is also delectable to the last morsel. In this dish, bite-size squid is stir-fried with a special blend of herbs and spices, giving it a touch of spiciness that tantalizes the palate. The squid is remarkably fresh as evidenced by its delightful springiness.

Another recommended seafood dish is Assam Sauce Prawns. The white shrimps are marinated with savory tamarind sauce for several hours, allowing the sauce to soften the shells and penetrate the crunchy flesh underneath. The prawns may be eaten entirely to savor the true tanginess of tamarind.

Moving on to poultry, Chicken Pongteh (RM20.00) is a popular choice for children and the elderly due to its pleasant taste. Stewed with a rich gravy, the chicken dish contains potatoes, shiitake mushrooms and fermented soybeans. Chicken Pongteh carries a hint of sweet aftertaste due to the presence of gula melaka (palm sugar).

Itik Tim (RM20.00) is a rich soup that contains duck, pickled mustard greens and sour plum. The soup becomes substantially saltier as it cools down, so it should be consumed while it is piping hot.

Despite its simplicity, the appeal of Chincalok Omelette (RM10.00) should not be discounted. Hailing from Malacca, cincalok is made by fermenting a type of shrimp called udang geragau with rice and salt. Pink in its uncooked form, cincalok is extremely pungent and salty. This makes it go particularly well with the eggs.

Meanwhile, Ju Hu Char (RM18.00) is an appetizer of Penang origin. The salad is a combination of shredded jicama (sengkuang), carrots, mushrooms and dried cuttlefish. The cuttlefish is responsible for the dish’s characteristic savoriness. Ju Hu Char is usually wrapped in lettuce and eaten by hand. A small amount of chili paste helps to enhance flavor.

Nasi Bakar (RM10.00) is a relatively recent invention from the Indonesian Peranakan community. Although there are over a hundred different variants, Nasi Bakar typically consists of cooked rice that is wrapped in a banana leaf and then grilled over fire. This allows the banana leaf to impart fragrant aroma to the rice.

Peranakan Passion uses premium jasmine rice for Nasi Bakar. The blue coloring is a natural extract of butterfly-pea flowers (bunga telang). Unlike most restaurants, Peranakan Passion uses lots of flowers in order to produce the deep blue color. The flowers are nearly tasteless on their own, so the rice is infused with a variety of herbs to produce the desired aroma and flavor. Also included with Nasi Bakar are omelette and sambal (chili paste).

As for drinks, Peranakan Passion uses honey in lieu of refined sugar. The subtle sweetness of honey delights the taste buds without the surfeiting sensation on the tongue. Shown here are Blue Pea Lemon (RM6.00) and Lemongrass Lime (RM7.00). Both drinks are prepared from genuine ingredients such as butterfly-pea flower, lemongrass, lemon and lime.

Peranakan Passion has extra dining space upstairs for hosting private events. Catering service is also available. To remain faithful to its Nyonya roots, the restaurant does not cut corners when it comes to the authenticity and freshness of ingredients. MSG is notably absent in the food here. It is also important to note that Peranakan Passion is a pork-free restaurant.

Name: Peranakan Passion Nyonya Restaurant (娘惹餐厅)
Address: 70-1-19, D’Piazza Mall, Jalan Mahsuri, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 018-462-5608
Business hours: 11:30am-3:00pm, 6:00pm-9:30pm (Tuesday-Friday), 5:00pm-10:00pm (Saturday-Sunday), closed on Mondays
Website: https://www.facebook.com/peranakanpassion
Coordinates: 5.32661 N, 100.28311 E
Directions: Peranakan Passion is located at D’Piazza in Bayan Baru. The restaurant is several shops after Sweet-i. Outdoor parking and basement parking are available at D’Piazza.

There are plenty of dining options at Shangri-La Hotel Singapore. The Lobby Lounge is one of the many restaurants in this 5-star hotel. Located at the Tower Wing’s lobby, the eatery is separated from the hotel’s reception by an infinity pool with “floating candles”. Behind the bar is an imposing basalt wall that rises to the ceiling. Crevices on the rock’s surface are covered with ferns and mosses, presenting the appearance of a warm tropical oasis.

The Lobby Lounge provides a comfortable setting for casual family dining. Although there are proper dining tables, most guests prefer low coffee tables with comfortable café chairs. In addition, there are also cozy couches next to the glass walls. A small library at the back is stocked with reading materials for guests to pass the time.

The food menu here leans towards local Singaporean heritage fare. There are 6 signature dishes to choose from, each of which is inspired by a popular stall in Singapore’s hawker scene. The Local Semi-Buffet Lunch is highly recommended. This offer allows the guest to pick a signature dish and drink, plus unlimited access to the buffet.

For the signature dish, we were eyeing for the Chilli Crab & Mantou (辣椒螃蟹和馒头) but this delicacy is unfortunately not available today. Therefore, our first choice is Bak Chor Mee (肉脞面), a noodle dish of Teochew (潮州) origin. This dish is inspired by the recipe at Seng Kee Mushroom Minced Meat Noodle (胜记香菇肉脞面) at Serangoon Garden Market.

Bak Chor Mee is tossed in a dark sauce that is prepared from soy sauce, vinegar and pork lard. Minced pork, mushrooms and chopped scallion are added on top. However, it is the dried sole (鳎目鱼干) that does the heavy lifting to the overall taste.

Served with Bak Chor Mee is a bowl of fish maw soup (鱼肚汤). Stewed from pork bones, the soup is loaded with threadfin (马鲛鱼) fish maw, pork slices and eggs. The soup’s taste is absolutely satisfying.

Another popular dish from the menu is Fish Bee Hoon (鲜鱼米粉汤). This crowd favorite is based on the original recipe at Ka-Soh Restaurant (家嫂). Boiling hamachi (鰤鱼) bones for several hours culminated in a rich soup of creamy consistency. However unlike most recipes in Malaysia, no evaporated milk is used to prepare this soup.

Thick rice noodle called “lai fun” (濑粉) is used here. We also enjoy the delectable slices of giant snakehead (巨型鳢鱼). The fish is tender and succulent, making every bite gratifying indeed. Just before serving, a dash of XO brandy is added to suppress the strong fishy smell.

Meanwhile, the buffet counters present a variety of Peranakan dishes. Also known as Nyonya, the Peranakan culture is the legacy of early Chinese migrants who settled down in Penang, Malacca and Singapore several centuries ago. Back then, these territories were under direct British control and were collectively known as the Straits Settlements.

Starting with appetizers, Pie Tee consists of crispy tart shells filled with shredded carrots and jicama (凉薯). Cooked shrimps, omelette, dark sauce, chili sauce and coriander are also added to enhance its flavor.

Popiah (薄饼) is a snack from Fujian (福建), a province in China from which the majority of ethnic Chinese in Singapore descended from. Wrapped in soft skin made from wheat flour, Popiah is typically filled with carrots, jicama, omelette, crushed peanuts, lettuce and fried shallots. Unlike Spring Roll, Popiah is never deep-fried.

Achar is a pickled vegetable dish that consists of julienned cucumbers and carrots in sweet-sour-spicy dressing. Crushed peanuts and sesame seeds are sprinkled on top to improve the salad’s mouthfeel. Like other Nyonya dishes, Achar is served using porcelain tableware reminiscent of the pre-modern days of China.

Beef Rendang is a traditional Minangkabau delicacy that is usually reserved for festive occasions and wedding ceremonies. The spicy dish contains bite-size chunks of beef seasoned with galangal, turmeric, lemongrass and other spices. Beef is slow-braised for hours until most liquid has boiled away, resulting in a savory dish saturated with essences of coconut milk and spices.

Ayam Ponteh is a popular Nyonya dish which contains chunks of chicken and potato. The thick gravy is made from fermented soybean paste (豆酱) and gula melaka (palm sugar). Another poultry dish which deserves special mention is Duck With Salted Vegetable Soup.

Jellyfish With Sesame has similar taste and texture to its Japanese counterpart, chuka kurage (中華クラゲ). Meanwhile for Tofu Skin, yuba sheets are cut into long, thin strips that resemble noodles.

Next, Nyonya Assam Pedas Fish is cooked in spicy gravy. The gravy’s fiery aroma comes from red chili peppers, while tamarind pulp is responsible for providing sourness. Cooked with battered fish fillets are assorted vegetables such as okra (lady’s fingers), eggplant (brinjal), yardlong beans, shallots and tomato. Sambal Vegetables is the vegetarian equivalent of this dish.

The desserts section presents a number of traditional Nyonya kuih. These traditional snacks are supplied by HarriAnns, a local family business which specializes in Peranakan recipes. Kueh Sago Melaka is made from sago pearls and gula melaka, while Kueh Lavender is infused with genuine lavender extract. Other delectable choices are Ondeh Ondeh, Peanut Ang Ku Kueh, Kueh Salat, Kueh Lapis and Kueh Rainbow Lapis.

Cheng Teng (清汤) is a sweet syrup with scrumptious ingredients like white fungus (银耳) and longan (龙眼). The dessert is usually served warm. Meanwhile, Bubur Cha-Cha derives its creaminess from coconut milk. The warm, starchy soup also contains sweet potatoes, taro, black-eyed peas and sago pearls.

As for drinks, guests may opt for endless flow of Teh Tarik and Kopi C. Each drink is prepared by repeatedly “pulling” it between two cups. This process allows the drink to cool down and gives it a frothy top. Other drinks of the menu are Barley, Bandung, Chin Chow, Milo Dinosaur and Milo Over-The-Top.

The Local Semi-Buffet Lunch is available from 11:30am to 2:30pm on weekdays (SGD42.00), and from 11:30am to 4:00pm on weekends and public holidays (SGD48.00). As for entertainment, live music is performed here every evening except on Sundays. The current star is the lovely Tria Bascon, who will be delighting the audience with classic jazz songs until 12 May 2018.

Name: The Lobby Lounge
Address: 22 Orange Grove Road, Singapore 258350
Contact: +65-6213-4288
Business hours: 7:30am-1:00am
Website: http://www.shangri-la.com/singapore/shangrila/dining/bars-lounges/lobby-lounge
Coordinates: 1.31141 N, 103.82639 E
Directions: Shangri-La Hotel Singapore is located along Orange Grove Road. The Lobby Lounge is located at the lobby of the Tower Wing. Shangri-La Hotel provides complimentary parking for its guests.

Fort Cornwallis (Kota Cornwallis) is among the oldest remnants of British presence in Malaysia. As the first British outpost in modern-day Malaysia, Prince of Wales Island (the colonial name for Penang Island) was an important entrepôt of the lucrative spice trade. Fort Cornwallis was constructed in 1786 to defend this British settlement against other colonial powers.

Near the east gate and behind the amphitheater is Kota Dine & Coffee. This air-conditioned restaurant specializes in modernist Nyonya (Peranakan) cuisine. The food menu modifies traditional Nyonya recipes to be presented in truly unconventional forms. As Kota has recently obtained halal certification, its doors are open to a wider range of customers.

Customers are greeted with a statue of Captain Francis Light (1740-1794) at the entrance of the restaurant. A historical flashback: Francis Light founded Penang in 1786 after being granted permission by the Kedah Sultanate, in exchange for British military protection against the Kingdom of Siam – a promise which he later renegaded when the Siamese army did invade Kedah in 1821.

For appetizer, the Jumbo Platter (RM38.00) is the best choice as it is a combination of other appetizer dishes. Pie tee (小金杯) consists of crispy edible cups that are filled with julienned jicama (sengkuang) and carrots. In an interesting twist, Japanese-style shrimp roe (えびこ) is also used.

Meanwhile, the crispy yam puff (芋角) contains stewed chicken fillings. Other delicacies include turmeric chicken, tandoori chicken, kerabu, Chinese bun (馒头) and sambal belacan (spicy shrimp paste).

Kota Asam Pedas (RM32.00) features a bowl of seafood curry with fried rice on the side. Apart from saltiness of dried shrimps, the rice has milder flavor in order not to steal the limelight from the bowl of curry.

The curry is rather milky in consistency due to a copious amount of coconut milk. Besides being spicy, the curry also carries appetizing sourness thanks to the presence of tamarind (asam) juice. Also included in the curry are salmon, shrimps and pineapples.

My favorite dish today is the Satay (RM25.00), which is inspired by the titular street food but is presented in a peculiar manner. Like its traditional counterpart, chicken is sweetened and marinated in a turmeric-centric spice mix, and then grilled over flame.

But instead of being served on skewers, the grilled chicken is rolled with nasi impit (pressed rice). The roulade is then covered with signature peanut sauce. Cucumber, onion and coriander are used as garnish. Overall, I feel that all ingredients assimilate well with one another.

The next dish, Nyonya (RM25.00), is inspired by Peranakan-style nasi lemak. Otak-otak serves as the base. The next layer is steamed rice that is infused with coconut milk and is colored by butterfly-pea flower. Rendang chicken and acar serve as primary components of this dish, while fried leek is just icing on the cake.

At Kota, Nyonya nasi lemak is also the source of inspiration of an unorthodox dessert. Instead of being a breakfast dish, Nasi Lemak Cake (RM19.00) uses the nasi lemak’s typical ingredients to create a sweet-savory treat. The cake is very soft when cut, yet it is firm enough to retain its form without crumbling.

At the base of the cake is a layer of biscuit that is flavored with sambal (spicy chili paste). This is followed by cooked rice dyed with butterfly-pea flower essence. Moving upwards, the next layers are sponge cake, coconut milk cream and cucumber-flavored jelly. At the side are caramelized anchovies and peanuts.

The Cream Brulee (RM19.00) assimilates the French custard dessert with ingredients from the East. The top surface of this rich custard is flambéed to produce a layer of caramel. There are 3 types of crème brûlée here – each is flavored with pandan, black glutinous rice or gula melaka (palm sugar). I feel that the gula melaka variant is particularly enjoyable due to its distinctive sugary aroma.

As for drinks, Kota Flavor is a new series of carbonated drinks. For example, the refreshing glass of Signature (RM16.00) is made from sweetened soda water with lemongrass juice, lime wedges, mint leaves and ginger flower. Interestingly, red chili pepper is added to impart some fiery sensation.

Sunrise (RM16.00) is another fizzy drink which uses orange juice as the base. Lime and mango provide a secondary line of tanginess, while mint leaves produce cooling sensation as the drink trickles down the throat.

Finally, the pink-colored Sunset (RM16.00) contains actual watermelon pieces, lending a rejuvenating sense of freshness. Also included in this fruity drink are lime and mint leaves.

Overall, Kota’s menu presents an interesting array of Nyonya delicacies with creative twists of modernity. Similar to traditional Nyonya cuisine, the food here takes a liberal approach in using local spices for seasoning. Kota also places strong emphasis on food presentation. Indeed, most dishes are elegantly plated on decorative porcelain plates.

Next to the common dining section is a private room which accommodates up to 20 people. Usage of this room is subjected to minimum spending of RM1,500.00. Although customers are charged an admission fee at the entrance of Fort Cornwallis, RM10.00 (per person) is deducted from the restaurant’s bill as long as there is minimum spending of RM20.00 per person.

Name: Kota Dine & Coffee
Address: Kota Cornwallis, Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah, 10200 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-371-4929
Business hours: 10:30am-10:30pm
Website: https://www.facebook.com/KotaDineAndCoffee
Coordinates: 5.42068 N, 100.34418 E
Directions: Fort Cornwallis (Kota Cornwallis) is located opposite the Penang State Assembly Building (Bangunan Dewan Undangan Negeri) on Light Street (Lebuh Light). There are two entrances to the fort: at the east and west walls. Street parking is available around the esplanade at Jalan Tun Syed Sheh Barakbah and Jalan Padang Kota Lama. Kota Dine & Coffee is located near the east gate and behind the amphitheater.

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

Lebuh Acheh is packed with heritage buildings on both sides of the street. Near the junction with Lorong Lumut is a structure which stands out prominently from its peers. Built in 1940, this building is the location of Urban Spice Cafe.

Urban Spice is a restaurant-cum-café which serves Asian fusion food. More specifically, the eatery specializes in Nyonya (Peranakan) delicacies with elements of other cuisines. The restaurant is part of Spices Hotel, a scattered collection of rooms at the upper floor and nearby buildings.

Speaking of the hotel, a bricked courtyard at the back of the restaurant leads to Lorong Lumut where most hotel rooms are located. Despite being a stone’s throw away from the restaurant, Spices Hotel enjoys relative seclusion as Lorong Lumut is off the beaten path. As part of George Town’s heritage area, the architecture of the hotel remains untouched from the original buildings.

The building at Lorong Lumut has 9 rooms in total. Each room has an attached bathroom. Spices Hotel offers an interesting combination of cultural nostalgia and modern comfort at the heart of George Town.

The common area is designed to facilitate mingling among like-minded backpackers. Brick walls on the sides of the room are preserved from the historical structures. So is the brick archway which bisects the room. Indeed, the hotel even spares an ancient tree which has taken root into the old walls.

The word “spices” in Spices Hotel is intentional. A small tray of spices is all it takes to permeate the entire room with aromatic fragrance. Shown here are star anise, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, fennel, turmeric and more. No wonder early European voyagers were so eager to reach the Spices Archipelago!

Hotel guests are served breakfast at Urban Spice. After 10:30am, the full menu becomes available. For something relatively light, Roti Ketam (RM16.00) is a sound choice. Infused with eggs, the French toasts are filled with a savory mixture of fresh crab meat, chicken and vegetables. The bread and fillings blend seamlessly, making this dish very agreeable to my palate.

Next, Pulled Beef Burger (RM18.00) comes with either salad of fries. The former sounds more interesting: mesclun salad with mango salsa dressing.

The beef is braised slowly so that it becomes very tender. Seasoned with a variety of spices, the savory gravy permeates the meat in its entirety, making the beef very flavorful bite after bite. Meanwhile, the ciabatta has an ideal balance between chewiness and crispiness.

The Lamb Burger (RM18.00) is another recommended delicacy. It is usually served with sesame bun, but customers may request for ciabatta should they prefer so. Like the previous dish, the burger also comes with a choice of either salad or fries.

Keeping its promise to prepare every ingredient from scratch, Urban Spice makes the lamb patty by hand. Fresh meat is ground and seasoned with spices. Judging from its heavenly taste, I must say that such effort deserves commendation. Not only is the lamb gratifying with each bite, such tenderness is unlike what I have tasted before.

Moving on to poultry, Spicy Roast Chicken (RM22.00) uses a special blend of spices to bring out the best flavor of chicken. Chicken is susceptible to dryness, so it is important to control the level of doneness. Fortunately, the kitchen manages this aspect quite well.

The Spicy Roast Chicken includes both salad and fries.

Still on the topic of chicken, Ayam Percik (RM22.00) is a Kelantanese delicacy which uses a unique blend of spices like turmeric, cumin, lemongrass, tamarind, coriander and more. Coconut milk also helps to impart a sense of creaminess to the gravy. Served on the side is a bowl of pickled cucumber-and-onion salad and a heap of rice dyed with butterfly-pea flower (bunga telang) extract.

Many Penang restaurants add hawker food into their menus to exploit the fact that it is located in Penang – regardless whether it is their specialty. But at Urban Spice, Char Koay Teow (炒粿条, RM15.00) is placed on the menu for a very good reason.

It is surprisingly that Urban Spice’s Char Koay Teow has reasonably good fiery aroma (镬气). Such quality is not easy to master. Customers can choose either chicken or duck egg. I recommend the latter as it imparts stronger flavor. Other ingredients in this dish are shrimps, garlic chives, bean sprouts, garlic, soy sauce and chili paste.

Rosie’s Special Mee Goreng (RM15.00) is named after the chef’s mother. This Malay or Mamak (Indian-Muslim) version of fried noodle uses yellow noodle which is generally shorter in length than those used in Chinese noodle dishes. This stir-fried dish also contains squid, potato, lettuce, crushed peanuts, fried shallots, chopped scallion and hard-boiled egg.

Another Penang favorite is Peranakan Laksa (RM15.00). The gravy has moderate level of spiciness thanks to a pungent combination of spices. A special type of rice noodle is used for this dish. Also included are bean sprouts, cucumber, carrot and mint.

For a more Western-style meal, Aglio-Olio Pasta (RM18.00) is the choice of many. The recipe takes creative license by introducing shiitake mushrooms and cilantro. A small amount of chili pepper presents a cooling sense of pungency. Sprinkled on top is a copious amount of grated parmesan cheese.

Switching gear to coffee, Urban Spice uses single origin Sumatran beans. Not many cafés serve single origin beans because the coffee is thought to appeal to a very narrow niche of drinkers. In this cup of Double Espresso (RM7.80), the coffee is so strong that it induces warming sensation at the back of my throat.

Besides coffee, there are several types of cold-pressed juices on the drinks menu. Mixed Juice (RM9.80) can be made from any 2 types of fruits from the following list: orange, apple, pineapple, lemon, watermelon and beetroot. I recommend beetroot as its earthy taste is interesting for a change.

As the name implies, Urban Spice take a liberal approach to using spices for most of its dishes. Despite its varied menu, I am surprised that the kitchen is quite small. True to its commitment to serve only quality food, Urban Spice does not use MSG in its recipes. Pork is also absent from the menu.

Name: Urban Spice Cafe
Address: 89, Lebuh Acheh, 10300 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-263-2899
Business hours: 7:30am-7:00pm, closed on Mondays
Website: https://www.facebook.com/89Urbanspicecafe
Coordinates: 5.41496 N, 100.33606 E
Directions: Drive to the end of Cannon Street (Lebuh Cannon) and turn right onto Lebuh Acheh. Urban Spice Cafe is located on the left, just before the junction with Lorong Lumut and just opposite of the basketball court. Street parking is available along Lebuh Acheh, Lorong Lumut and Armenian Street (Lebuh Armenian).

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

17 Kelawei Fusion Cuisine occupies a two-storey heritage building on Kelawai Road (Jalan Kelawai). This restaurant is located across the road from Evergreen Laurel Hotel. The compound around the stand-alone building serves as parking space for customers. There is also a vegetable garden where several herbs are grown for kitchen use.

17 Kelawei is managed by the same team as D’ Fat Mona Lisa Café at Jalan Free School. The décor of 17 Kelawei pays tribute to famed English comedian Charlie Chaplin (1889-1977). A comical statue of him stands at the restaurant’s entrance. Placed at each table is a miniature figurine of Charlie with several of his famous quotes.

The ambience of 17 Kelawei has elements of British culture. Apart from proper dining setting, there are also several cozy sofas and a classy coffee table next to the mock fireplace. The latter is a nice place to be seated for afternoon tea.

Interestingly, there is a terrarium in the dining hall. A terrarium is a glass enclosure which contains soil and plants – think of it as a botanical equivalent of an aquarium. Apart from an LED lamp which supplies artificial sunlight, the terrarium is pretty much self-sustaining. The plants only require watering once a month to replenish lost moisture and nutrients.

The upper floor of 17 Kelawei provides extra dining space for special events such as the upcoming Valentine’s Day. There is also a VIP room directly above the foyer.

Although 17 Kelawei’s food menu revolves around fusion cuisine, there is also a fair range of Western fare. A recommended dish in this category is Pork Ribs (RM43.90). Served alongside the 4-rib steak is an assortment of grilled vegetables – sweet potato, cherry tomato, peas and pumpkin.

The ribs are prepared such that the flesh near the bones remains juicy, making the pork delectable bite after bite. The outer surface carries a lovely hint of smoky aroma. Smoky barbecue sauce on the side complements well with the slab of ribs.

The Seafood Combo (RM90.00) is meant for 2 or 3 persons. This large platter includes 3 types of seafood with different seasoning. Smoked BBQ sauce and lemon butter sauce are presented in separate bowls.

The grilled shrimps are extremely juicy thanks to their exceptional freshness. They are cooked with bell peppers, ginger and black pepper sauce.

Meanwhile, barramundi takes advantage of lemon butter dressing. I also like the pleasant texture of this fish.

As for salmon, chunks of fish are cooked in sweet and sour sauce, and then presented in an edible cup made from rice flour. Basil and sesame seeds serve to enhance aromatic appeal.

As for something more localized, it is recommended that you go for the Penang Famous (RM18.90). This is 17 Kelawei’s very own char koay teow (炒粿条).

For this noodle dish, the restaurant spares no expense in using premium ingredients – shrimps, scallops, Chinese sausage (腊肠), pork lard (猪油渣), crab stick (蟹柳) and eggs. All elements are brought together through excellent “fiery aroma” (镬气).

In response to favorable response, 17 Kelawei is also introducing Nyonya (Peranakan) cuisine to its regular menu. The menu specializes in genuine Nyonya dishes as opposed to modern fusion. Customers can select any 3 (RM50.00) or 5 (RM88.00) dishes from the 9 available choices. Each additional dish is priced at RM20.00. This Nyonya menu is available for lunch (12:00pm-3:00pm) and dinner (6:00pm-9:00pm) on weekends, and only dinner on weekdays.

Bang Khuang Char (芒光炒), also known as Jiew Hu Char (鱿鱼炒), is a dish of shredded jicama (芒光) with thin slices of dried cuttlefish. The sweet-savory mixture is typically wrapped in lettuce leaves before being eaten.

Loh Bak (卤肉) is often eaten as a snack or as part of a full meal. To prepare Loh Bak, sliced pork is seasoned with five-spice powder (五香粉), rolled in tofu skin, and then deep-fried to a light crisp. Each order of Loh Bak comes with three pieces.

Gulai Tumis (娘惹酸辣鱼) is a curry featuring barramundi (siakap) and okra (lady’s fingers). The curry’s sourness comes from tamarind (asam) juice. Ginger flower (姜花) and mint are used to enhance aroma. Among other herbs, 17 Kelawei maintains a fresh supply of mint in its garden.

As for poultry, Serai Chicken (娘惹式香茅鸡) is usually eaten with rice as the rich flavors of gravy may be overpowering if consumed directly. The gravy is infused with coconut milk and a variety of spices like lemongrass and tamarind.

Using sambal (chili paste), Prawn Petai (叁巴臭豆虾) is yet another classic Nyonya dish. Once again, the freshness of shrimps is the key to its appeal. People who love petai (stink beans) will also appreciate the bean’s unique smell and taste.

As for Black Soya Pork Fillet (豆油肉), slices of pork are braised in honey-sweet dark soy sauce. This dish is best enjoyed when hot to appreciate the pork’s juiciness.

It is difficult to introduce Nyonya cuisine without mentioning Inchi Kabin (娘惹胭脂鸡). Pieces of chicken are coated in coconut milk and spices, before being fried to golden perfection. The chicken is irresistible thanks to lovely seasoning. As for dipping sauce, the saucer of cili padi (bird’s eye chili) packs a respectable punch of pungency.

For Dry Asam Prawn (亚参虾), juicy shrimps are pan-fried with thick tamarind sauce and dark soy sauce. Once again, the shrimps are extremely fresh. This dish is satisfying indeed.

Rempah Fish (叁巴鱼) features several large mackerel (ikan kembung) whose flesh is firmer and more sizable than their lesser cousins. The fish is served with sambal and deep-fried in hot oil.

Complementary side dishes include acar timun (picked cucumber) and kerabu (unripe mango salad). As for condiments, homemade sambal goes well with many dishes especially fried ones.

The Nyonya meal includes tri-color rice. Blue, yellow and green pigments are derived from butterfly-pea flower, turmeric (kunyit) and pandan respectively. Rice is cooked with coconut water as opposed to coconut milk. As a result, the rice is not so surfeiting while still having the distinctive aroma of coconut.

As for drinks, I recommend the hot version of Jasmine Lemongrass (RM12.90) because it helps to cleanse the palate between flavorful Nyonya dishes. The warming sensation that this drink produces at the chest is really soothing.

Customers who visit 17 Kelawei between 3:00pm and 6:00pm can also indulge in the Charlie’s Afternoon Tea (RM88.00). Instead of a tiered stand, food is served in a custom-made cabinet. Each order of Charlie’s Afternoon Tea is meant for 2 persons and includes a pot of tea.

Main highlights of Charlie’s Afternoon Tea are marble cheesecake, Swiss rolls, chicken pies and apple crumble. Tartlets use shortcrust pastry and contain fillings like apple, smoked duck and tuna. Ham and apple mayonnaise sandwiches are also included. As for scones, 17 Kelawei provides butter, apple or pineapple jam and cream. Most of these items are made fresh in the kitchen.

The blend of tea this afternoon is Fruit Basket by The Tea Depot. Examples of other tea blends are English Breakfast, Earl Grey and Chamomile.

Meanwhile for coffee, 17 Kelawei uses medium-dark roast which is similar to that used at D’ Fat Mona Lisa. 17 Kelawei is the first café in Penang to introduce the Belgian Coffee, a novel way of brewing coffee. An order of Belgian Coffee (RM38.90) includes marble cheesecake and tuna crackers on the side.

Belgian Coffee is a special type of vacuum coffee maker in which two containers are affixed to a lever. The containers are also interconnected by a tube. Water is boiled in the metal container, in which hot steam is fed into the glass container. Ground coffee in the glass container is brewed by incoming steam.

As the glass container becomes heavier, it tilts the level to inhibit further heating of the metal container. This produces partial vacuum in the metal container, causing brewed coffee to be siphoned back. A tap near the base of the metal container dispenses coffee. To produce bolder flavor, it is recommended to repeat the brewing process once.

Overall, the food at 17 Kelawei is generally favorable. The kitchen spares no expense in using premium ingredients, including homegrown spices like rosemary and mint. The upscale ambience of the restaurant is also another reason to dine here.

Name: 17 Kelawei Fusion Cuisine
Address: 17, Jalan Kelawai, 10250 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-226-2005
Business hours: 8:00am-10:30pm, closed on Tuesdays
Website: http://www.17kelawei.com
Coordinates: 5.42976 N, 100.31780 E
Directions: 17 Kelawei is located on the left side of the one-way Jalan Kelawai. It is on the opposite side of the road from Evergreen Laurel Hotel. There are parking spaces within the restaurant’s compound.

Having bought a voucher through Groupon earlier, today’s lunch leads me to The Legend Nyonya House (娘惹传承) at Chulia Street Ghaut (Gat Lebuh Chulia). This restaurant is located within walking distance from Black Kettle and China House. The Legend Nyonya House specializes in authentic Peranakan (Nyonya) cuisine. The kitchen is staffed by a third-generation Nyonya chef.

Stepping into this restaurant, I can feel a sense of nostalgia in its décor. Within the air-conditioned dining room are Nyonya-style elements such as marble-top tables and chairs, tiled flooring, wooden room dividers, stained glass and electric lanterns with tassels. If I were to nitpick, the only blemish is poor soundproofing due to substantial echoing off the hard walls.

After placing our orders, we are treated with complimentary appetizers. Jeruk Bawang is pickled onion served in sweet syrup. Sour plum is added for tangy appeal. Meanwhile, Acar Rampai is made from pickled cucumber and carrots in julienned form. Sesame seeds and crunched peanuts also help to draw appetite.

Moving on to main dishes, Jieu Hu Char (炒沙葛鱿鱼, RM18.00) is a salad of shredded cuttlefish, jicama and mushrooms. The mixed ingredients are typically wrapped with lettuce before being eaten. Lime and sambal (chili paste) are provided for diners who prefer extra flavors.

The next dish is a popular Nyonya favorite: Kapitan Chicken (甲必丹鸡, RM25.00). Chicken and potatoes are cooked with thick curry gravy which is just fairly spicy but saturated with flavorful savoriness. Gravy ingredients include coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves.

As for pork, Tau Ewe Bak (黑酱油猪肉, RM25.00) is highly recommended. With the right combination of lean and fatty portions, the pork belly cutlets are braised with dark soy sauce which has honey-like sweetness. Overall, this dish is similar to Chinese char siew (叉烧) but is significantly more flavorful. The aroma is enticing too.

Nyonya Brinjal (娘惹茄子, RM15.00) is another signature dish here. Slices of aubergine are stir-fried briefly so that they remain juicy. Cooked aubergine is then topped with Nyonya-style spicy sauce which complements rather well.

Kiam Chye Arc (咸菜鸭, RM5.00) is derived from duck stock. The clear soup also contains pickled Chinese mustard (榨菜). It is advisable to consume the soup while it is warm, because the soup’s saltiness is overpowering when it cools. In addition, I also prefer some degree of pungency from peppercorn in addition to sheer saltiness.

As for warm desserts, Pengat (彩虹西米, RM7.00) is made from coconut milk and sweetened with gula melaka (palm sugar). The milky dessert contains sago jelly pearls, banana, taro as well as 3 types of sweet potato. The Pengat’s taste is on the milder side; I usually prefer more gula melaka. Meanwhile, Pulut Hitam (黑糯米, RM5.00) is another warm dessert made from black glutinous rice. Unfortunately, the dessert is not as thick as it should be.

Overall, the main dishes at The Legend Nyonya House are remarkably satisfying. However, the desserts are somewhat lackluster in my opinion. This is an area which the restaurant may need to improve on. While Peranakan cuisine is served from 11:00am to 10:00pm, the restaurant also serves steamboat from 9:00pm till closing.

Address: 2, Gat Lebuh Chulia, 10300 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-251-9598
Business hours: 11:00am-3:00am (Sunday-Thursday), 11:00am-4:00am (Friday-Saturday)

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Ambience

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There are several restaurants at the ground level of Summerton. Among them is I Eat Restaurant, which primarily serves Peranakan (Nyonya) cuisine. Its menu also includes Malay, Chinese and Indian dishes. The food here is pork-free.

One of the restaurant’s signature Nyonya dishes is Assam Tumis Fish Fillet (RM18.00). The curry’s main appeal is its appetizing sourness from tamarind. This dish is well prepared and is certainly recommended.

Another iconic Nyonya delicacy is Curry Kapitan (RM13.50). The curry is rich in coconut milk, while the chicken pieces are quite tender. The curry goes particularly well with rice.

Meanwhile, Madras Mutton (RM15.00) is reasonably tasty but I think the dish can use more spices. The dish comes with a bowl of rice.

Last but not least, Otak-Otak (RM7.00) is made from fish and is seasoned with several types of spices. The mixture is wrapped in banana leaf and then cooked in a steamer. Try this dish if you have an affinity for spicy food.

Overall, the food at I Eat Restaurant is good by any measure. I am curious about the non-Nyonya dishes on the menu.

Address: 110-01-21, Persiaran Bayan Indah, 11900 Bayan Lepas, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 012-484-7196
Business hours: 11:30am-3:00pm, 6:00pm-10:30pm, closed on Mondays
Taste

Presentation

Ambience

Hospitality

Value

Update: This business has ceased its operations.

Old Chow Thye is a home-style Nyonya restaurant on Jalan Chow Thye, at the former premises of Japanese-Thai restaurant Shinjuku or Bravo Cafe.

The dining section of Old Chow Thye gives a warm sense of welcome. The arrangement of tables is catered for small families or office employees.

The wall paintings were commissioned by Gabriel Marques, who is also responsible for several street art around downtown George Town. The exposed bricks are not part of the painting; wall plaster is deliberated knocked off to give an elegant sense of nostalgia.

A section of the wall serves as menu for the daily special. As the daily special literally changes from day to day, so is the chalk writing on the wall.

Our hostess today is Ms. Eileen, who explained the concept behind this family-operated restaurant. Apart from a list of side dishes and beverages, the food items are made available in rotating basis. Instead of replacing the entire menu every day, there is a section in the menu where the placard is replaced every morning.

A subset of entrées are made each day, which is typically planned one week in advance. These entrées are arranged in sets which may include a number of side dishes. There are usually more choices on Sundays.

Our meal commences with the Nyonya Chicken Curry (娘惹咖哩鸡, RM12.90) which includes sides of Chap Chai, Steam Egg and rice. Nyonya curry is not nearly as spicy as Malay cuisine. Instead, the former relies on rich coconut milk to produce a concoction of savory gravy.

Alternatively, one can also opt for Chai Boey (菜尾, RM12.90) which includes the same side dishes. Chai boey is originally conceived as a convenient way to reuse leftover vegetable from previous meals. Stewed with meat and Chinese mustard, the broth gives the distinctively sour-savory taste which is truly appetizing.

Chap Chai (杂菜, RM4.00) is a salad mixture of several types of vegetables, including cabbage, jicama and carrots. This is a staple Nyonya dish considering the diverse availability of vegetables in the region.

I find the Steam Egg (蒸蛋, RM4.00) to be quite appealing too. The texture is soft and yolky like bean curd, basically the way steam egg is supposed to be prepared. But what really impresses me is the use of salted egg (咸蛋) and century egg (皮蛋) on top, which surprisingly complements but does not overwhelm the steam egg.

Inchi Kabin (腌炸鸡片, RM18.00) is the Nyonya interpretation of fried chicken, one which cuts no corners in marination. The four pairs of drumsticks and wings serve as delectable finger food after the main course.

The dipping sauce is made from mustard, onions, lime and chili. While dipping sauce adds a new level of flavor to the fried chicken, I still prefer to enjoy the chicken in unaltered form.

Next up, Acar Fish (阿扎鱼, RM5.00) is essentially fried fish in traditional Nyonya style. Mullet fish is typically the ideal candidate for this style of cooking. Its name refers to use of various spices which serve as pickle, such as turmeric, ginger and chili pepper. In fact, turmeric is responsible for giving the dish an appealing yellowish appearance.

The previous dishes have generally strong flavors; not that I am complaining. A bowl of Tu Thor Thng (猪肚汤, RM8.00) serves as an interlude to between competing flavors. Thanks to lovely pieces of pork meat and stomach linings, sipping the soup is very gratifying indeed.

I personally would have preferred to have black pepper seeds in the soup, making the stew very sharp-flavored and spicy. This is just my personal preference, though.

Moving on, Nasi Ulam (香草饭, RM9.90) is an amalgam of rice with shredded vegetables. The vegetables contribute lovely aroma especially when the dish is still hot.

The Loh Bak (卤肉, RM2.00 each) is one of my highlights for tonight. Minced pork is wrapped in bean curd skin, then deep-fried to give a layer of crisp. Old Chow Thye’s version of Loh Bak reminds me of the ones that my late grandfather used to make in the village. I have not encountered this feeling until today.

Next is the crowd favorite Bak Zhang (肉粽, RM8.90), a dumpling of glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaf in triangular shape, then steamed until be rice is cooked.

The dumpling may also contain other ingredients. In this case, fatty pork cuts and mushrooms are included.

The Otak Otak (鲤鱼包, RM5.00) is made from seasoned fish paste, wrapped in banana leaf in the shape of a vessel.

The Otak-Otak is then steamed until the fish paste becomes jelly-soft. Unlike many otak-otak which I had tasted before, Old Chow Thye’s version is not as spicy as it should be. I usually prefer more spiciness when enjoying this dish.

Moving on to something sweet, the Bubur Cha Cha (摩摩喳喳, RM3.50) is a traditional Nyonya dessert made from coconut milk (椰浆).

This warm dessert also contains starchy ingredients such as sweet potatoes (番薯), taro (芋头) and jelly made from tapioca flour (薯粉). I think there is room for improvement in terms of ingredients; the best bubur chacha which I have tasted so far is Sweet-i (甜在心糖水屋) at Taman Lip Sin.

Unlike neighboring restaurants, Old Chow Thye is open throughout the day without any breaks between lunch and dinner. This eatery remains open during tea time to serve customers who just want a place to enjoy desserts and a cup of coffee.

The Oreo Cheese (RM9.90) is one such dessert. Made from Oreo crumbs and cream cheese, this dessert treat is presented in a nice plastic container.

Crispy Oreo crumb is a delightful companion to the cream cheese below. It is similar in texture to an Oreo-blended shake, except that this one delightful crisp in it.

Similarly, the Green Tea Cheese (RM9.90) is made from ground green tea leaves mixed with crackers. As always, I welcome the refreshing scent of green tea. This dessert is highly recommended if your stomach still has room for desserts.

Despite styling itself as a traditional Nyonya restaurant, Old Chow Thye also has full-time baristas to fulfill your craving for coffee. A warm glass of Butterscotch Latte (RM9.90) looks like a good choice.

As for the 3 Layer Ice Coffee (RM11.90), it is made from espresso, fresh milk and chocolate. Essentially, this beverage is similar to mocha, although the composition of milk is more pronounced.

Overall, the Nyonya dishes at Old Chow Thye appears quite authentic. The cooking style is very family-oriented, focusing on traditional recipes and quality ingredients. I would recommend this place whenever anyone is interested in enjoy authentic Nyonya cuisine.

Name: Old Chow Thye
Address: 36A, Jalan Chow Thye, 10050 George Town, Pulau Pinang
Contact: 04-227-6477
Business hours: 11:00am-6:00pm (Monday), 11:00am-10:00pm (Tuesday-Sunday), closed on Saturdays
Website: https://www.facebook.com/oldchowthye
Coordinates: 5.42547 N, 100.32091 E
Directions: From Jalan Burma (Burmah Road), turn right to Jalan Servis (Service Road), then right again at Jalan Irrawadi (Irrawaddy Road). At the next crossroad, turn right again to Jalan Chow Thye. Old Chow Thye is one of the nearest shops on the right. There is room for 2-3 cars in front of the restaurant. Apart from that, there is street parking along Jalan Chow Thye and a private car park at Service Road.

As this restaurant was refurbished from colonial-era buildings, the dining section is quite spacious, very unlike those newly developed commercial lots which are miserably narrow.

The Nyonya food menu is quite similar to Chinese dishes, with some assimilation of local Malay cuisine (for example, more liberal use of curries). There is also a section for Ang Mo Chiak (Western food) for Westerners who fear of venturing into uncharted territories.

In addition, set lunch is available for RM11.90. The menu changes on a daily basis. We opted for this set lunch today, which comprises of Curry Kapitan, Spring Roll, Omelet, Stirfry Potato Leaves, rice and Chrysanthemum drink.

The Curry Kapitan is a highly recommended chicken curry dish. The chicken is braised perfectly with the coconut milk-rich curry broth. The broth is not too spicy compared to Malay curry, yet very flavorful and tasty indeed.

The Spring Roll comes in three pieces and is deep-fried with batter coating. The ingredients inside are crunchy to each bite.

As for the Stirfry Potato Leaves, the dish is prepared through light frying and quite little oil, therefore preserving the natural goodness of the vegetable leaves. The vegetable is served over a banana leaf for aesthetic purpose.

The Omelet is reasonable in terms of taste and presentation. Fried with onions, the egg is then garnished with some shredded bell peppers.

Finally, the meal is also served with a heap of rice and a slice of raw tomato.

As for the Chrysanthemum drink, it is only mildly sweet much to my preference. This is definitely the healthier way to go too.

Out dining experience at Auntie Gaik Lean’s is pleasant and we definitely recommend this restaurant if you are looking for a downtown Nyonya restaurant.